Tuesday, November 28, 2006

Bye Bye Rajasthan

Udaipur with its gorgeous lake and palace has been a nice end note to my little tour of this amazing state. There is definately somethin special round here... Whether its down to Roger Moore playing in the great Bond movie filmed here that all the locals here are so proud to show in the hotels, who knows. Being British is cool here cos' thats where Bond comes from. I'm a Bond girl in Udaipur, Step aside Miss Moneypenny!!(Okay maybe I am getting a bit carried away now). Watching Octopussy is the best when you have the backdrop view of the palace behind you and Bond bravely climbing its ledges in front of you on the screen(swoon).

Anyway I am leaving on the 8pm train tonight, (our lil' trio is parting for the mo) which will then connect to another train, and I should be, if all goes according to plan in Bombay by 4pm tommorow afternoon. I am just staying there 1 night (as wasn't really up for much longer on my own in a big city) and then off again the following morning to Goa to meet some lovely folk from Ye Ole England!

Well am trying to down load some pics from my pals today, so you can see how handsome my Camel Tony is, hopefully in the next post.

Sunday, November 26, 2006

Rajasthan Adventures

Well I can honestly tell you that the state of Rajasthan is amazing for beautiful cities and colourful albeit hassely folk. The weather is gorgeous (blue skies, hot, but comfortable, though chilly at night). However, my teachings from my meditation retreat on attachment have been tested. Upon leaving Jodhpur, I realised that my lovely beautiful camera had gone (sob). It was lovely. It took nice pictures. It helped me update you guys. Oh yeah, and just in case I am not being clear here, I loved my camera.

Anyway, Buddha taught, nothing is permanent. Attach to nothing, and then suffering will not occur. On a positive note, I had (hours before it had gone) luckily saved all my pics from the memory cards (incidently in the camera case with camera), onto CDs, so all pics to date, I have. Also on another positive note, the nice fellow travellers I am with on this leg of my journey will let me download pics they have taken, which I will try to share on blog soon...

Getting back to my trip, the train to Jaiselmir from Jodhpur, we met with Kaya, a lovely independent minded (of superior race) Polish girl, which made up for the American company that we had to put up with (just kidding Edwin-not hahah). The three of us were touted on the train and giving the tout the benefit of the doubt after telling us he wouldn't push us into any camel trek deals (which everyone advises against). We took up his cheap offer of a room for all three of us at a hundred rupees. The room was fine but we paid the difference in our test of patience at having to put up with (every time on way out of hotel) "we do best cheap trek, we have nice camel trek"
"Okay, thanks, for telling us, we will think about it"
"Really, we do good trek and provide mineral water"
"Okay, we heard the first time, thanks"
AND SO ON.
Patience is a virtue.

Anyway we ended up booking with a recommended guide from the book, a bit more expensive, but the selling point was, earlier start than the others, lux desert beds, our own camel (to ride independently) so we get to learn how to ride a camel for real, and driving 60km away from the city before we even get on the camels to go see the Dunes.

So! We were picked up at 6am the next morning, and on the ride out in the jeep I suddenly wished I hadn't sent all my warm things home. It was FRRRREEEEEEEEEEZING. We were now 1 English/French (me), 1 French, 1 Polish, ! 2 Americans and 1 Australian. (I love the way you met the whole world in India).

Finally we got there, and sat by a nice warm fire and were given toast, jam and Chai (Indian tea which you get everywhere and is always really sweet so be prepared to lose your teeth if you ever come to India and can't give up tea). Our Camels were slowly arriving around us and it suddenly felt very real. I was going to ride a camel across the desert!!

I was then introduced to my Camel, Tony. He was so handsome!!! It was love at first sight(until he poooped).

Then we had to climb on the backs of our camels and my memory flicked back to my last Camel experience a long long time ago in Tunisia on a package holiday sitting on a Camel for a photograph. Hmmm, I felt that perhaps this experience may be somewhat more intense. I was not sitting on this one for a photo, but planning on independently riding him for 2 days. I tried to remember the instructions that we read before hand, and hoped it wouldn't be too different to a horse(stop laughing).

Now a camel has extremelly long legs (double a horse). When he sits down he kind of rocks you completely forward then back as he has to actually fold his hind legs to sit down. And obviously the reverse when he stands up. It is absolutely hysterical.

Also when a camel walks, it is a relatively bumpy rocky experience. Somehow (not quite sure how) the camel I had been chosen to sit on was first in line, so I couldn't just be lame and follow, but had to lead. Tony did most of the work though, and had this habit of trying to walk through trees to scratch himself (the flys were annoying him) without regarding the fact that there was a person on his back(how rude). Also we had to gallop a bit to keep up to our schedule (to make your camel go fast you have to make strange clicking noises, and go HAH! HAH! really loud (I copied the guides). I felt like I was an Arabian Nights movie star, but maybe not so slick.

Anyway, we stopped for lunch and thats when I realised my backside was beginning to hurt a little. Bear in mind we had a day and a half more camel riding to go. Lunch and a few hours later we re-board until we reach the dunes which were kind of in the middle. Most of the 'desert' had actually many trees and wasn't all sandy. The Dunes were a bit more Arabian night like though, and this was where we were to set up camp.

A meal, a sunset and campfire new moon resolutions later, we set up our beds (which were actually pretty comfortable clean and warm (def worth the extra rupees I am sure), tucked in to a backdrop sky display of stars. IT WAS BEAUTIFUL. I could even see the milkyway, and when everyone stopped talking, the silence was absolutely stunning. I was in heaven. Waking up to an orange sunset was pretty amazing too.

A day of camel riding later, I realised I couldn't actually walk anymore and was extremely thankful that we had only booked a 2 day trek.

Tuesday, November 21, 2006

Jodhpur






I am not going to write so much as am not here in Jodhpur so long (arrived yesterday, leaving tommorow) but am again feeling blessed with the beautiful experiences!

This place has a city known as the blue city-pics will hopefully demonstrate why. There is an amazing fort here and the women wear the most beautiful colours. As we head further south the climate is warming up, but is actually quite pleasant as we are near 'desert land' so its quite dry. Am getting train tommorow to Jaisalmer to do desert trek hopefully!

Also bumped into 2 more folk at guest house from Tushita. India is big, but it is still a small world!

Monday, November 20, 2006

Amritsar





After my great experiences in McCloud and and the sentiments of more goodbyes, I met up with a few others at half four in the morning, to get a taxi and bus to Amritsar which took about 7 hours. Arriving in Amritsar I had the awareness of how protected it had been up in the Himalayas, especially when we got off the bus to be attacked by a hoard of taxi and autorickshaw drivers! In the end we escaped from the masses to a little cafe and had chai and butter biscuits for breakfast to take a few breaths of acceptance at having arrived in the madness of a new Indian city.

2 chais and an autorickshaw drive later amongst the predominantly turbaned Sikkhs, we were in a different world of the Golden Temple. We managed to find accommodation (incidently free-donation only, as all are welcome) within the vicinity. We were lucky enough to get two rooms for 3 people each, and they were nice enough..

After recovering, we had our first meal in the temple (huge hall with people eating out of metal trays) and it was really well organised. As it is free, one way you can pay is through offering Seva, which is to volunteer work to help. We did washing up, which was actually quite fun, in these huge sinks with ten people around them.

The temple itself is the most beautiful I have ever seen, and had a real sense of calm, an oasis compared to the hustling bustle of the city around us. The most amazing expereince in the Temple was the ceremony of the book arrival at 5am in the morning (the book gets read or 'sang' every day, and then gets returned, out of the temple at 9.30pm in which they have a closing ceremony). The bridge acroos the water was full of pilgrams, and we were amongst them! In the Temple itself, we prostrated on entering and donated money to the book (as an offering) and stood whilst a kind of opening prayer chant was said -(SAT NAM, WAHE GURU!).

The Temple within the water was absolutely breathtaking and had been painted in real gold. Inside it was carpeted, and there were beautiful intricate designs on the walls. I was not allowed to photograph, as is understandably disrespectful. I expected to find God sitting on a throne at any moment! There were 3 floors and 2 more Holy books which were being followed at the same time, and we had another beautiful moment of being given a sweet semolina gee (there is a name , but can't remember) sweet into our hands (representing the sweetness of God). We also found a smaller room (back on pathways surrounding the lake) with a group of musicians playing sacred Sikkh music, it was really nice just sitting there for a while listening..

My next stop was Rajasthan and fortunately Edwin (one of our Tushita group) was heading the same way so we booked a sleeper train via Jalander to Jodhpur to see the blue city, my first train expeience!!! The local Indians were intrigued by our game of eye spy, and before we knew it we had a large audience and participants. Very funny!

Wednesday, November 15, 2006

Last days in McCloud





I have really enjoyed my time here and if I were to return anywhere I have been so far in India this place would definately be one of them. I am leaving on Friday to Amritsar to the Golden Temple with a few others that are going in the same direction. A nice thing that happened today though, was the return of the Dalai Lama from Japan. I got some pics of the people waiting for his arrival but unfortunately didn't actually see him as (other than a huge convoy of cars) but the atmosphere was fantastic, though somes enthusiasm seemed to wane after so many hours waiting!

Visit to the local Tibetan Art Exhibition (3)





Last one!!

Visit to the local Tibetan Art Exhibition (2)






Following on from part 1...

The rabbits definately did it for me.

Visit to the local Tibetan Art Exhibition (1)





Had a really beautiful day yesterday visiting the Norblingka Institute, and saw the most incredible Thangpa paintings and copper statues. What made this place really special was that you could see the workshops where they were making the Tibetan Artworks. I will do another posting as can only fit 5 pics per blog, to see more. There was also a beautiful Buddhist Temple, and this place was set in lovely gardens. It took an hour and a half and two local buses to get there, thanks to the idea of Shanti who had the idea and knew about this place (pictured at the restaurant-shame didn't take before we ate-the food was lush)!

Just couldn't fit these on the last one!!!



Breakfast, at the rooftop cafe' and the local co-operative

In and around McCloud Ganj






Just some pics of the place. Postboards everywhere like in pic and whats happening around ! There is a great cinema here and open mic evenings (live singing and a great clown who does things like tight rope walking in the midlle of the caf!) pic of us there. which are great in the evenings. I also checked the temple out and saw the Museum next to it on the history of Tibet (hard to leave with dry eyes).

Horse Trek To Triand





The day after the meditation, I met Feneka and Mandy (from the tushita course) and they invited me along to do a Horse trek to Triand which is this beautiful haven 7km above McCloud away from roads, so you only see horses and people. Halfway there is the 'oldest chai shop since 1984'! See sign. The Chai was pretty good! We left at 8.30am and got back for 5pm. When the roads were to rocky we hiked on foot. My horse (Nilu) was so lovely! I was sad for us to part!!!

Tushita!



Just a little post here to say that the 10 day meditation has been one of the best things I have done here in India. Some bits were hard, some great, but overall, I feel a significant 'something' having shifted within me having had so much time to reflect, ponder, and begin to actually learn to meditate! The course I did came from the Tibetan Buddhist philosophy (quite appropriate, here in Dharamasala!), and we were woken up every day with a Gong at 6pm for an early morning 45 minute 'breathing' meditation in the Gongpa on cushions. For the first 7 days we had teachings after this and 'guided meditations'. We were allowed to talk between lunch and dinner and the rest of the time was silence. The last 2 days we had to be in complete silence all day and had only meditations (no teachings). In some ways I don't think I realised how much it all really was meaning until afterward! I have definately had a few inner realisations and am aware of how impermanent everything is and that I have far too many attachments to become a monk, but hey-it was certainly an enlightening experience, which has created more questions!

The setting was lovely, a nestled few buildings enveloped in trees in the mountains away from the hustle and bustle, with loads of naughty monkeys swinging and scarpering about (extremely entertaining).

Another great thing about the experience were the people, I have met some truly gorgeous folk! There were about 50 I think, and I keep bumping into them round McCloud Ganj. We also keep hooking up in restaurants! Am currently sharing a room with Lily (short for Aurelie) lovely French girl from Toulouse who is good to keep my French in tact(see pic on prayer wheels)!